Chapter 137 Qinghai Lake Day 2
Chapter 137 Qinghai Lake Day 2
The Beautiful Sequel of Qinghai Lake: The Second Day of Exploration and Intoxication
At dawn, scattered sunlight streamed through the RV windows, gently illuminating everyone's faces and awakening them from their reverie of Qinghai Lake. Li Fugui was the first to rise, stretching lazily. He gazed out the window at the shimmering water, his eyes full of anticipation. "A new day! Qinghai Lake is sure to have many more surprises waiting for us." Sister Xiaotao also woke up. Hearing this, she smiled, quickly made her bed, and remarked, "Of course! We only scratched the surface yesterday. Today, we'll have to delve deeper."
After a quick breakfast, the aroma of wheat bread mingled with the rich, fragrant coffee from the thermos, lingering on our lips and teeth, fueling us for the day ahead. The RV slowly pulled away, heading deeper into Qinghai Lake. The scenery outside resembled a flowing oil painting: fields of golden rapeseed flowers spread freely, like spilled paint palettes, contrasting with the azure waters with dazzling brilliance.
Arriving at a tranquil bay, Zhang Bei and Xiao Xing, perceptive enough, pointed at a crowd gathered not far from the shore and exclaimed, "Look, they seem to be having an event over there!" Curious, everyone stopped their car for a closer look. It turned out to be local herders performing a sea worship ceremony. Colorful prayer flags, layered and tied to stone pillars and mani stones along the lake's edge, whispered prayers in the fierce breeze. An elderly Tibetan woman, carrying a pot of butter tea, slowly poured rich tea onto the lake, muttering something to herself with a solemn and reverent expression. A nearby herder enthusiastically explained, "This sea worship ceremony is an ancient custom passed down from generation to generation. We offer khata, barley, and butter tea to the lake deity, praying for favorable weather, prosperity for people and livestock, and for Qinghai Lake to remain peaceful and beautiful year after year." Everyone was deeply moved by this simple and solemn ceremony, pausing silently, feeling in awe the power of this millennia-old faith.
The Qinghai Lake Sea Sacrifice has a long history, dating back to the Tang Dynasty. At that time, the Qinghai Lake region was part of Tubo territory. Tibetans revered nature and considered Qinghai Lake sacred, marking the beginnings of the Sea Sacrifice. During important festivals and years of disaster, tribes would spontaneously gather by the lake to perform solemn Sea Sacrifice rituals.
At dawn, the nomads participating in the sea sacrifice, clad in brand new Tibetan robes, their hems fluttering in the breeze, rode on steeds, laden with sacks laden with offerings. At the beginning of the ceremony, a respected elder led the young and middle-aged men as they selected a spot by the lake, built a mani pile, and layered it with colorful prayer flags inscribed with Buddhist scriptures. The flags rustled in the breeze, as if conveying prayers to the lake god.
Afterwards, women, carrying pots of boiling butter tea, walked reverently to the lakeside, chanting blessings and slowly pouring the tea. The lake was instantly filled with the fragrance of tea. Children, holding handfuls of barley, scattered it into the lake. The plump grains, filled with the hope of a good harvest next year, leaped into the water. The men solemnly tied white hadas to the stone pillars by the lake. The hadas danced in the wind, full of respect.
During the Ming and Qing dynasties, sea sacrifices flourished. The imperial court, prioritizing western border defense, dispatched numerous people to perform these rituals. Officials, dressed in official uniforms, marched in formation, setting up incense tables by the lake, offering generous sacrifices such as the three animals, and reading the sacrificial texts with resounding, bell-like voices. They prayed for the lake spirit to protect the peace of the imperial domain and the stability of the border, while also seeking to win over the leaders of the Mongolian and Tibetan tribes. Folk sea sacrifices also continued to grow in popularity, with herders still adhering to tradition, bringing Hada (Hada), barley wine, and their own dairy products to express their wishes to the lake spirit.
While political objectives have diminished in modern times, the lake retains its traditional core. At specific times each year, people of all ethnic groups gather by the lake to hang prayer flags, scatter dragon talismans, and offer sacrifices. These ancient rituals, embodying a yearning for a better life and a wish for harmonious coexistence with nature, have become a unique cultural symbol of Qinghai Lake over the years.
After leaving the sea sacrifice site, the group headed for the Erlangjian Scenic Area at Qinghai Lake. Shaped like a sharp sword piercing the center of the lake, the area's narrow peninsula bustled with tourists. Strolling along, Zhang Tingjian was captivated by the numerous stone tablets lining the lake's edge. These tablets bear inscriptions of poems and verses from generations of literati and poets praising Qinghai Lake, capturing the breathtaking beauty of the lake and mountains. He exclaimed, "This Qinghai Lake, from ancient times to the present, retains its allure, drawing countless people to leave their mark here." Zhang Nan, meanwhile, was busy posing for photos with a group of dancers in traditional Tibetan costumes. The vibrant colors of their robes and graceful, graceful movements captured the moment the camera flashed, capturing the joyful atmosphere.
As noon approached, the sun was high in the sky, and the heat was intensifying. We found a tented restaurant in the shade by the lake and prepared to feast. The owner served a steaming earthenware hot pot, the copper pot overflowing with ingredients. Yak beef and mutton rolls were stewed to tender, flavorful perfection, melting in our mouths. The handmade meatballs were springy, soaking up the savory broth. A variety of seasonal vegetables tossed in the rich broth, simmering to a refreshing sweetness. The accompanying homemade yogurt was a truly exceptional dish, its surface coated in golden milk. A spoonful of it was a refreshingly sweet and sour fusion, instantly dispelling the heat.
During a break in the meal, an old artist in the restaurant played the sanxian, humming an old ballad, and leisurely recounted another legend about Qinghai Lake: "In the early years, demons were rampant around Qinghai Lake, and the people were suffering. There was a kind-hearted fairy who came down to earth to defeat the demons. In the fierce battle, she sacrificed herself and used a magic weapon to subdue the demons. The magic weapon turned into a small island in the middle of the lake. The fairy was seriously injured and merged into the lake water. Since then, Qinghai Lake has become spiritual, blessing the surrounding peace." Everyone listened attentively, and looking at the clear lake water, it seemed to have a bit more mystery and beauty.
In the afternoon, a group of people, having rented bicycles, cycled along the lakeside greenway, a gentle breeze caressing their faces, bringing the coolness of the lake water. Xiao Xing led A Bao in a playful romp, with A Bao occasionally chasing low-flying butterflies, much to the laughter of the group. During the ride, they encountered several painters sketching Qinghai Lake. Their paintings, ranging from gentle and majestic to magnificent, from various angles, captivated Zhang Tingjian, who paused for a moment to exchange creative experiences with the artists and draw inspiration.
When they reached a tranquil wetland, everyone dismounted and stepped inside. The reeds swayed in the wind, rustling like a natural symphony. In the shallows, black-necked cranes gracefully ambled, their slender figures occasionally stretching their necks to pierce the stillness with a long cry. Sister Tao tiptoed closer, raised her camera, and captured this precious moment, muttering, "How free! This wetland is a true bird paradise." Li Fugui crouched down, scrutinizing the tiny, nameless flowers dotting the wetland, and sighed, "Nature's handiwork—with a touch of the pen, it creates a breathtaking spectacle."
As the sun set, the sky glowed like a fiery glow, tinting the lake a vibrant orange-red. Everyone rushed to the lake's prime viewing platform, waiting for the last ray of sunset light to fade. The water shimmered, and flocks of returning waterfowl flew by, creating breathtaking silhouettes. Zhang Nan couldn't help but wax poetic: "This Qinghai Lake sunset—one look at it is etched in my heart. All I'll remember is the romance of this moment." Everyone nodded in agreement, lost in the breathtaking beauty.
Night fell, the sky filled with stars. Everyone gathered around a bonfire lit outside the RV, the flames licking the wood, crackling. Holding a warm barley pancake in hand, reflecting on the day's experiences, Sister Tao softly said, "Today is another unforgettable day. The customs, scenery, and delicious food of Qinghai Lake are like a treasure trove, never to be exhausted." Li Fugui added a piece of firewood, his eyes determined, "There's still tomorrow. This magical land is destined to leave us with a basket of beautiful memories."
In the distance, the lake murmured softly in the night. Accompanied by the warmth of the campfire and the laughter of friends, everyone slowly fell asleep. In their dreams, they still dreamed of the clear blue of Qinghai Lake, its folk customs and endless tenderness. They were looking forward to embracing it again on the third day and continuing this dream journey by the plateau lake.
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